Madrid in 3 Days: The Lucalvry Itinerary
By Alex Marlowe · Updated 2026-05-17 · 13 min read
An hour-by-hour itinerary for three days in Madrid — the Prado at opening, the Royal Palace before the lines, the tapas crawl on Cava Baja, and the rooftops worth the climb.
Day 1
Prado, Retiro, Cava Baja
- 9:00am — Coffee at La Mallorquina (Puerta del Sol)
The 1894 pastry counter for a napolitana de chocolate eaten standing
The 1894 pastry counter for a napolitana de chocolate eaten standing. Three minutes later you're on Carrera de San Jerónimo walking toward the Prado.
- 10:00am — Museo del Prado at opening
Pre-book the timed entry
Pre-book the timed entry. Two and a half hours, taken with a plan: the Velázquez rooms first (Las Meninas, the Equestrian Portraits), then the Bosch Garden of Earthly Delights, then the Goya black paintings. Skip the rest on a first visit.
- 12:30pm — Walk to the Retiro
Through Plaza de la Lealtad past the Mandarin Oriental Ritz
Through Plaza de la Lealtad past the Mandarin Oriental Ritz. Enter the Retiro at the Puerta de Felipe IV; the Estanque (the central boating lake) is the postcard. Allow forty-five minutes for the loop including the Crystal Palace.
- 1:30pm — Lunch at Lhardy (Carrera de San Jerónimo 8)
The 1839 grande-dame for the cocido madrileño in three vuelcas — soup, vegetables, then…
The 1839 grande-dame for the cocido madrileño in three vuelcas — soup, vegetables, then the meats. Two hours, paired with a Vega Sicilia by the glass if budget allows. Reservation a week ahead.
- 4:30pm — Walk to Plaza Mayor and the Mercado de San Miguel
Through Sol, into the historic core
Through Sol, into the historic core. Skip the Mercado as a meal (it's a tourist set-piece) but graze a single jamón ibérico tasting at the central counter.
- 6:00pm — Aperitivo at El Viajero (Plaza de la Cebada 11)
Three-floor La Latina classic; the rooftop terrace runs the best afternoon light over t…
Three-floor La Latina classic; the rooftop terrace runs the best afternoon light over the cathedral and the Royal Palace.
- 8:30pm — Tapas crawl on Cava Baja
Start at Casa Lucio (Cava Baja 35) for the huevos rotos; move to Almendro 13 for the hu…
Start at Casa Lucio (Cava Baja 35) for the huevos rotos; move to Almendro 13 for the huevos revueltos with chorizo; finish at Lamiak for late vermouth. Reserve Casa Lucio a fortnight ahead; the rest are walk-in.
Day 2
Royal Palace, Sabatini Gardens, DSTAgE
- 9:30am — Royal Palace at opening
Pre-book the audio tour (€18)
Pre-book the audio tour (€18). The Throne Room, the Royal Armoury and the Royal Pharmacy are the three set-pieces; allow ninety minutes including the gardens.
- 11:30am — Sabatini Gardens and Templo de Debod
Free, ten minutes' walk west of the palace
Free, ten minutes' walk west of the palace. The Egyptian temple was a 1968 gift from Egypt for Spanish help on the Aswan Dam relocation; the platform behind it runs the city's best afternoon view of the Casa de Campo.
- 1:00pm — Lunch at Sacha (Calle Juan Hurtado de Mendoza 11)
Twenty-minute taxi to the Galician institution your concierge will defend
Twenty-minute taxi to the Galician institution your concierge will defend. The pulpo a la gallega and the merluza en salsa verde are the orders. A long lunch, finished with carajillo.
- 4:00pm — Reina Sofía
Forty-minute pause at the Picasso Guernica room; the rest of the modern collection dese…
Forty-minute pause at the Picasso Guernica room; the rest of the modern collection deserves another sixty minutes. The Sabatini courtyard at the rear is the best museum café in the city.
- 6:30pm — Aperitivo at Santo Mauro (Calle de Zurbano 36)
The Marriott Luxury Collection garden bar — the most architecturally serious aperitivo…
The Marriott Luxury Collection garden bar — the most architecturally serious aperitivo room in Salamanca, with a glass of Tio Pepe and a plate of ibérico de bellota.
- 8:30pm — Dinner at DSTAgE (Calle Regueros 8)
Diego Guerrero's two-Michelin-star room — the long tasting (€195) is the right call, pa…
Diego Guerrero's two-Michelin-star room — the long tasting (€195) is the right call, paired with the Spanish-only wine flight. Three weeks ahead in shoulder season.
Day 3
Rastro, Reina Sofía corners, Casa Botín
- 10:00am — El Rastro market (Sundays only)
The flea market that takes over La Latina between Plaza de Cascorro and Ronda de Toledo…
The flea market that takes over La Latina between Plaza de Cascorro and Ronda de Toledo every Sunday morning. Walk the central spine; the side streets sell the better antiques. Allow ninety minutes.
- 12:00pm — Vermouth at Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles (Plaza de Cascorro 18)
The 1942 vermouth bar that ends every serious Rastro morning — order la casa de la casa…
The 1942 vermouth bar that ends every serious Rastro morning — order la casa de la casa with a plate of caracoles.
- 1:30pm — Lunch at Casa Botín (Calle Cuchilleros 17)
The world's oldest continuously operating restaurant, founded 1725
The world's oldest continuously operating restaurant, founded 1725. The cochinillo asado is the order; the wood-fired oven has not been allowed to go out since the 18th century. Reservation a fortnight ahead.
- 4:30pm — Reina Sofía corners
The Tapies, Saura and Antoni Muntadas rooms most visitors miss
The Tapies, Saura and Antoni Muntadas rooms most visitors miss. Allow ninety minutes.
- 7:00pm — Sundown at the Círculo de Bellas Artes rooftop
€5 entry, the city's most central rooftop with the Gran Vía-and-Cibeles arc
€5 entry, the city's most central rooftop with the Gran Vía-and-Cibeles arc. One drink, one panorama, twenty minutes.
- 9:00pm — Late dinner at Triciclo (Calle de Santa María 28)
Small-plates room in Letras for the unhurried final-night meal — the locals' pick when…
Small-plates room in Letras for the unhurried final-night meal — the locals' pick when you've already done the institutions. Reservation a week ahead.
Frequently Asked Questions
Editor-in-Chief
Alex MarloweAlex Marlowe is Lucalvry's Editor-in-Chief. Twelve years covering hotels and travel for Condé Nast Traveller, Monocle, and Wallpaper. Based between London and Lisbon.
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