Lyon in 3 Days: The Lucalvry Itinerary
By Alex Marlowe · Updated 2026-05-17 · 12 min read
An hour-by-hour itinerary for three days in Lyon — the bouchons worth the booking, the Fourvière at golden hour, the Halles de Bocuse, the traboules walk and the Bocuse pilgrimage.
Day 1
Vieux Lyon, Fourvière, Daniel et Denise
- 8:30am — Coffee at Slake Coffee House (Quai Saint-Antoine)
The serious specialty-coffee counter on the Saône bank
The serious specialty-coffee counter on the Saône bank. Espresso and a Pâtisserie de la Tête d'Or canelé.
- 9:30am — Walk into Vieux Lyon
Cross the Pont Bonaparte and enter the Renaissance quarter at Place Saint-Jean
Cross the Pont Bonaparte and enter the Renaissance quarter at Place Saint-Jean. The Cathédrale Saint-Jean and its astronomical clock are the morning set-piece; allow 45 minutes.
- 10:30am — Traboules walk in Vieux Lyon
The covered passageways through the Renaissance buildings are the architectural set-pie…
The covered passageways through the Renaissance buildings are the architectural set-piece of the quarter. The Long Traboule at 54 Rue Saint-Jean (entry through 27 Rue du Bœuf) is the most architecturally serious; an OnlyLyon traboules map (free at the tourism office) is essential.
- 12:30pm — Lunch at Les Trois Maries (Rue des Trois-Maries 1)
The lunch-bouchon classic with the andouillette tirée à la ficelle and the cervelle de…
The lunch-bouchon classic with the andouillette tirée à la ficelle and the cervelle de canut. Reservation a week ahead.
- 3:00pm — Funicular up to Fourvière
Ten-minute ride from Vieux Lyon, €2.20
Ten-minute ride from Vieux Lyon, €2.20. The Notre-Dame de Fourvière basilica is a Belle Époque set-piece (the Byzantine-revival interior is the better photograph) but the real reason to climb is the panorama from the esplanade behind.
- 4:30pm — Walk down to the Roman theatres
The 1st-century Théâtre Antique and Odéon sit on the south slope of Fourvière, free, at…
The 1st-century Théâtre Antique and Odéon sit on the south slope of Fourvière, free, atmospheric. The walk back down to Vieux Lyon takes 25 minutes through the Jardin Archéologique.
- 7:00pm — Aperitivo at Le Florian (Place du Change)
Vieux Lyon wine bar with a small terrace on a Renaissance square — a glass of Côte-Rôti…
Vieux Lyon wine bar with a small terrace on a Renaissance square — a glass of Côte-Rôtie and a plate of cochonailles.
- 8:30pm — Dinner at Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean (Rue Mourguet, Vieux Lyon)
The bouchon reference
The bouchon reference. Order the salade lyonnaise, the pâté en croûte (the 2018 champion of France), the quenelle de brochet sauce Nantua, and finish with the îles flottantes. Three weeks ahead.
Day 2
Presqu'île, Halles de Bocuse, modern bistro
- 9:00am — Coffee at Café Mokxa (Rue Chavanne)
Presqu'île specialty-coffee counter
Presqu'île specialty-coffee counter. Espresso standing at the bar.
- 9:30am — Place des Terreaux and the Hôtel de Ville
The Bartholdi fountain and the Belle Époque town hall are the Presqu'île set-piece
The Bartholdi fountain and the Belle Époque town hall are the Presqu'île set-piece. The Musée des Beaux-Arts on the south side of the square is the third-largest art collection in France and deserves 90 minutes — the Veronese, the Géricault and the Manet are the three you must see.
- 12:00pm — Walk to the Halles Paul Bocuse
Twenty-five minutes east, or one metro stop
Twenty-five minutes east, or one metro stop. The covered market is the city's gastronomic temple — the Mère Richard cheese counter, the Mâchon des Halles for the standing lunch, the Sibilia pâté counter. Plan to graze, not sit-down — though Le Comptoir d'Antonin in the corner is the right room if you want a chair.
- 2:30pm — Walk along the Rhône to the Pont Lafayette
The riverside path is at its best in the early afternoon; the péniches (converted barge…
The riverside path is at its best in the early afternoon; the péniches (converted barge restaurants) along the bank are the see-and-be-seen aperitivo set later in the day.
- 4:00pm — Musée des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs
The silk and decorative-arts collection — the most architecturally serious second-tier…
The silk and decorative-arts collection — the most architecturally serious second-tier museum in Lyon. Allow 75 minutes.
- 6:30pm — Aperitivo on a péniche along the Rhône
Le Sirius and La Marquise are the two anchor barges between Pont de la Guillotière and…
Le Sirius and La Marquise are the two anchor barges between Pont de la Guillotière and Pont Wilson. A glass of Beaujolais on the upper deck.
- 8:30pm — Dinner at Têtedoie (Mama Shelter Presqu'île, or the standalone Christian Têtedoie at Fourvière for the destination version)
Modern Lyonnais — the bouchon vocabulary at one Michelin star
Modern Lyonnais — the bouchon vocabulary at one Michelin star. Reservation a fortnight ahead.
Day 3
Croix-Rousse market, Bocuse pilgrimage, farewell
- 8:00am — Walk up to Croix-Rousse
Twenty minutes uphill from Presqu'île, or one funicular ride
Twenty minutes uphill from Presqu'île, or one funicular ride. The Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse market runs every morning except Monday; Saturday is the serious one. Coffee at Le Court Circuit.
- 10:00am — Traboules walk in Croix-Rousse
The silk-weavers' traboules are functionally different from the Renaissance ones — tall…
The silk-weavers' traboules are functionally different from the Renaissance ones — taller, narrower, designed to move silk between workshops. The Cour des Voraces (entry at 9 Place Colbert) is the architectural set-piece.
- 12:00pm — Drive or taxi to L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges
Twenty minutes north of central Lyon
Twenty minutes north of central Lyon. The booking is the morning of: the lunch service is ladled at 12:30pm and reservations release roughly six weeks ahead — the sit-down is its own ritual. Three Michelin stars, held under Bocuse and continued under his successor team. The truffle soup VGE and the loup en croûte feuilletée are the historical orders; the quality of the experience justifies the pilgrimage. Allow three hours and €280 per person at the lower tasting.
- 4:00pm — Taxi back to central Lyon
Drop at the hotel for a slow walk-off
Drop at the hotel for a slow walk-off.
- 6:00pm — Slow walk along the Saône
From Pont Bonaparte to Pont Maréchal Juin; the late-afternoon hour is the best one for…
From Pont Bonaparte to Pont Maréchal Juin; the late-afternoon hour is the best one for the Saône photography.
- 8:30pm — Late dinner at Le Café Comptoir Abel (Vieux Lyon, Rue Guynemer 25)
The 1928 institution, where the quenelle de brochet sauce Nantua is the benchmark order
The 1928 institution, where the quenelle de brochet sauce Nantua is the benchmark order. The last bouchon evening, the slowest pace. Reservation a fortnight ahead.
Frequently Asked Questions
Editor-in-Chief
Alex MarloweAlex Marlowe is Lucalvry's Editor-in-Chief. Twelve years covering hotels and travel for Condé Nast Traveller, Monocle, and Wallpaper. Based between London and Lisbon.
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